Exploring the Portuguese Period in Goa
- devanandpaul
- Jul 12
- 8 min read
When most people think of Goa, they picture beaches, parties, and coconut trees swaying in the breeze. But there’s another side to this sunny state, one rich with history—that’s Old Goa.
The story of Portuguese Goa began in 1510, when Afonso de Albuquerque captured Goa from the Bijapur Sultanate. Goa’s strategic location on the western coast of India made it a prized gateway to the flourishing spice trade in the Indian Ocean. Its deep natural harbours and access to inland trade routes allowed the Portuguese to establish a stronghold across maritime Asia. What began as a military conquest soon transformed into a lasting colonial presence for over 450 years.
In the early years of their rule, the Portuguese built forts, spread Christianity, and made Old Goa, also called Velha Goa, their capital. They built grand churches, convents, and palaces using European designs but local skills and materials. Old Goa became so impressive that it was known as the Rome of the East.
The moment you walk into a cathedral or basilica in Old Goa, you are transported to the Portuguese era. These majestic buildings date back to the 1500s and 1600s, when the foreign rulers and missionaries built the city of Goa to rival the great cities of Europe.
You don’t have to be an expert to admire its architecture—these churches stand out with their towering arches, detailed carvings, and striking features at every turn.
Each church has a story: some tell of saints and miracles, others of colonial power and cultural exchange. Even the chapels echo a time when Old Goa was the heart of faith and influence.
In this blog I share my trip to Old Goa—three unhurried days of exploration by foot—visiting her churches and unearthing the stories hidden in her historical edifices.
Archaeological Survey of India Museum
I began my exploration of Old Goa at the Archaeological Survey of India Museum, located in the former Convent of St. Francis of Assisi. Inside its quiet halls, eight galleries showcase artefacts from prehistoric times to the Portuguese era.
Portraits of governors and viceroys line the walls, each one seeming to keep silent watch over the room. What caught my eye was the statue of Luis de Camoes, the renowned Portuguese poet from the 16th century.
I was disappointed that photography wasn’t allowed. Without pictures the experience felt incomplete—as if I’d left with shadows instead of memories.
Outside the museum, weathered stones from the Portuguese era line the walkway like an open-air gallery—some engraved with coats of arms, others as tombstones of governors and bishops, and yet others as grinding stones once used for making gunpowder.
Chapel of St. Catherine
A short walk west brought me to the Chapel of St. Catherine, a modest chapel built in 1510 by the Portuguese commander Afonso de Albuquerque after he defeated Adil Shah, the Bijapur sultan, on St. Catherine’s feast day. That same day, he had a mosque torn down, over which a mud-and-palm structure was quickly constructed.
In 1550, Governor George Cabral expanded it, and in 1952, it was rebuilt using laterite and lime mortar. The reddish-brown stones and white plaster give the structure an aged charm, and mica-inlaid windows softly filter light.
Though services are no longer held here, the chapel is open to visitors.
Church of St. Francis of Assisi
I walked just a few steps from the chapel and reached the grand Church of St. Francis of Assisi.
The story of this church began in 1517, when Franciscan friars arrived in Goa. They built a chapel in 1521, which was eventually replaced by the larger church we see today—completed in 1661.
Dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, the church once formed part of a large complex, including a convent, which now houses the archaeological museum.
The church’s Portuguese Manueline façade stands tall, flanked by two octagonal towers. At the top stands a statue of St. Michael the Archangel.
The church interior showcases baroque grandeur—gilded altars, rich woodwork, and detailed stucco. The main altar, covered in gold leaf, features St. Francis Xavier surrounded by angels, and a large painting behind it depicts scenes from his life.
Tombstones of governors and priests punctuate the floor, the coats of arms still visible on them—footprints from an era that once ruled these coasts.
The Sé Cathedral
Next, I visited the Sé Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of St. Catherine—the largest church in Asia.
It was commissioned in 1552, and construction began in 1562. It took 57 years to complete. The final consecration, however, happened only in 1640.
Originally, the cathedral had two towers, but one collapsed in 1776 and was never rebuilt. The remaining one houses a golden bell, famous for its deep, resonant sound.
The cathedral exterior is stark and sports a Tuscan style, while the inside is majestic, with high ceilings, Corinthian columns, and elaborately decorated chapels.
The main altar is dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, and is surrounded by paintings depicting moments from her life. The Chapel of the Cross of Miracles, which allegedly witnessed an apparition of Christ in 1619, is a place of pilgrimage. Near the chapel is a baptismal font from 1532, believed to have been used by St. Francis Xavier himself.
Church of St. Cajetan
A walk northeast of the Sé Cathedral brought me to the Church of St. Cajetan, near the ruins of the old Viceroy’s Palace.
Inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, this church is a gem of Italian Renaissance architecture. Built from laterite and finished with lime plaster, it glows gently in the Goan light.
A large dome, four massive pillars, coffered ceilings, floral motifs, and gilded side altars create an awe-inspiring ambience. The main altar is dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence.
Built by Italian Theatine (a Catholic order founded in the 16th century) friars who arrived in 1640, the church was completed in 1661, after much perseverance—especially from Fr Pedro Avitabili, who travelled to Portugal to win royal support.
Inside the church lies a hidden well, believed to be part of a pre-Christian site, possibly a Hindu temple. Outside, remnants of an Islamic palace gate hint at Goa’s layered history.
The Viceroy’s Arch
After visiting the church, I wandered towards the Mandovi River and reached the Viceroy’s Arch, near the ferry terminal.
Built in 1599 by Francisco da Gama, a descendant of Vasco da Gama, this arch once marked the ceremonial entrance to Portuguese Goa. Viceroys would pass through it as they assumed their roles.
One side of the arch features a statue of Vasco da Gama, beneath which is his family crest—a deer. On the other St. Catherine stands watch.
An inscription on the arch commemorates Portugal’s emancipation from Spain. The arch—though partly damaged, and restored in 1954—still exudes the grandeur of its time.
Bom Jesus Basilica
My next stop was the Basilica of Bom Jesus (meaning ‘Good Jesus’), one of India’s most sacred and historical churches, built by Jesuits between 1594 and 1605.
Its laterite façade may seem plain, but within lies something extraordinary: the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, the Spanish missionary, who died in 1552.
His body, astonishingly well-preserved even now, is in a silver casket within a mausoleum crafted by Italian sculptor Giovanni Battista Foggini, and goes on display every ten years, drawing thousands of pilgrims.
The main altar is flanked by black stone pillars from Bassein (Portuguese name for the city of Vasai, Maharashtra, India) and is surrounded by chapels, sacristies, and richly decorated columns. The basilica floor is paved with marble.
St. Augustine’s Tower and Queen Ketevan
The haunting St. Augustine’s Tower, situated high on a quite hill, Monte Santo (Holy Hill), is the last remnant of what was once one of the grandest churches in Goa.
Built between 1597 and 1602 by Augustinian monks, the Church of St. Augustine once had eight chapels, four altars, and a sprawling convent. In 1835, the Portuguese expelled the monks, after which the church was abandoned. It slowly fell into ruin, and in 1842 its main vault collapsed.
Today, only a single tower stands, defiant yet alone.
Within the ruins lie the relics of Queen Ketevan of Georgia, executed in 1624 for refusing to convert to Islam. Her remains were secretly brought to Goa by the monks.
Rediscovered in the 1990s, the remains were later said to have most likely belonged to the queen through DNA testing.
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
The last on my list was the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (built between 1543 and 1549), perched farther up the Holy Hill, near a cliff. Its location outside the city centre spared it from later changes, retaining its original Gothic-Manueline style.
Its simple fortress-like façade hides three altars—dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, St. Anthony, and the Crucified Christ. A bell from 1618 bears a prayer to the Virgin Mary.
Inside are the tombstone of Governor Garcia de Sa and a delicate alabaster mausoleum of his wife Catarina, the first Portuguese woman in Goa. Legend says that they were married by St. Francis Xavier at her deathbed.
Divar Island
I spent a quiet, contemplative day on the serene Divar Island. I saw two beautiful churches, which were closed when I visited.
Our Lady of Piety Church, perched imposingly on a hill, greeted me with a panoramic view of the Mandovi River. Built in the 18th century, the church, with its whitewashed walls and elegant baroque façade, radiates a sense of calm. Farther inland, I came upon St. Mathias Church, the spiritual heart of a tiny village called Malar.
Reflections
The towering façades and silent naves of these old churches of Goa are more than architectural marvels; they are relics of a turbulent past.
In 1560, the Goa Inquisition began. For almost 200 years, it brought fear and strict control. Hindus were forced to give up their beliefs; even converted Christians were punished for following old customs. Temples were destroyed. Many local traditions were banned.
But over time, the rule became less rigid, and Goans slowly became part of the system. Some worked in the Portuguese administration; some went to Lisbon to study. A new culture began to grow—one that embraced Catholic traditions and Indian ways of life.
Goan cuisine also changed. It saw the fusion of two cultures—for instance, popular Goan dishes like vindaloo (a fiery-red meat curry) and sorpotel (hot–sour pork) were created by blending vinegar and chillies; we also have bebinca, the queen of Goan desserts (a multi-layered cake of Indo-Portuguese origin, made with coconut milk and Indian spices). Portuguese-style houses with big verandas, bright colours, and decorative balconies appeared across villages, surrounded by palm trees and rice fields.
Language was no exception—Konkani stayed as the main language at home, while Portuguese became the language used in schools, offices, and courts.
Thus, the history of Portuguese Goa is not just about colonization—it is a story of transformation. Over centuries, Goa blended European and Indian influences to create a unique Goan culture.
‘Every great civilization is, in the end, a blending.’
—Rabindranath Tagore
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Though I have seen the Basilica of Bom Jesus, I never knew about so manybother historical churches! I wish you could take pictures of the architecture.
The photos and the write up took me through a virtual tour of old Goa. The detailed descriptions about various buildings showed author's deep interest in the subject. Really a wonderful blog. Photos are superb.
Thank you for taking me on this holy trail in Goa. As usual an engaging trip. Wonder how Goa gat its name and how many days did this tour take you?