Mizoram literally means land of the highlanders. Located in northeastern India, the state of Mizoram is renowned for diverse flora and fauna. Its varied terrain, spanning lush forests, towering mountains, and deep gorges, offers a spectrum of habitats for wildlife. Bordering Tripura, Assam, Manipur (northeastern states of India), Bangladesh, and the Chin state of Myanmar (formerly Burma), Mizoram boasts cultural richness as well. These were enough reasons for me, a nature enthusiast and wildlife photographer, to have Mizoram on my bucket list.
Target Birds of Mizoram Trip
Meticulous planning goes into each wildlife photography trip, with focus on target species and their specific habitats. My primary objective of this trip was to capture the elusive Mount Victoria babax, a rare sighting of which had been reported in 2022 after a quarter-century hiatus. I also aimed to document other birds: the Chin Hills wren-babbler, Hume’s treecreeper, Assam laughingthrush, mountain bamboo partridge, stripe-breasted woodpecker, russet bush warbler, brown bush warbler, and rusty-capped fulvetta. Every new species sighted brings excitement, fuelling my quest to explore the wilderness in pursuit of these elusive gems.
Phawngpui National Park
Phawngpui National Park, our birding destination, is situated near the Myanmar border in Mizoram’s Chhimtuipui district. The name Phawngpui originates from the local Lai language, where ‘phong’ translates to meadow and ‘pui’ means great.
Covering approximately 50 square kilometres, the park has abundant natural beauty. It is home to Phawngpui Peak, standing at 2165 metres, the highest in Mizoram. The park’s grasslands are punctuated by dense patches of Himalayan oak and Indian pine, clusters of bamboo, white orchids, rogue lilies, and the occasional blushing, late-blooming rhododendron, each contributing its own colour to the canvas of this distinctive landscape.
The local Mizo people regard the park as sacred, believing it to be inhabited by the spirits of their ancestors.
Choosing the Right Guide
Birding in unfamiliar territory often necessitates the expertise of a seasoned guide. A proficient birding guide possesses a comprehensive skill set and is adept at identifying diverse bird species by sight and sound. Moreover, they have a deep understanding of birds’ behaviours, habitat preferences, and ecological roles, coupled with extensive knowledge of prime birding locations. Excellent communication skills, safety awareness, and a commitment to responsible birding practices are also essential traits. I enlisted the services of Arka Sarkar, a respected birding guide from Kolkata (West Bengal, India) for this trip.
Importance of a Travel Buddy
Having a skilled birder as your birding companion can greatly enhance your birding experience and knowledge. I had the company of Latha Prabhakaran, a respected birder (and advocate), for this trip. Her expertise in, and passion for, birding facilitated learning from each other during our birding excursions.
Besides Latha, three other birders were in our group: Souvik Roychoudhury, Suman Paul, and Sanchita Dey, all from Kolkata.
Day 0
On day 0, we landed at Lengpui airport, 45 kilometres from Aizawl (the capital of Mizoram). Captivating sights from the airplane of peaks adorned with lush forests, extending into the distance, filled me with anticipation for the adventures that lay ahead over the next six days. We spent the night at the Government Tourist Resort near the airport.
Day 1
The early morning was spent birding around the resort, where we spotted some common birds. After lunch, we commenced our 3-hour journey to Hmuifang, a beautiful hill station 50 kilometres from Aizawl. We passed through the village of Muallungthuthe, located along the Tropic of Cancer.
Day 2
We motored to a village called Sangau, taking birding stops along the route. We spotted several birds: flavescent bulbul, whiskered yuhina, collared owlet, great barbet, speckled piculet, dusky warbler, and slaty-backed flycatcher. A thrilling day, indeed!
Day 3
The pivotal part of our trip unfolded today. We set out early from Sangau and made our way to Thaltlang village, where we shifted to a four-wheel (4 x 4) pickup truck to cover the last 5–6 kilometres of rough, unmotorable terrain leading to Phawngpui National Park.
We briefly stopped at the park entrance, where we were greeted by sightings of blue-winged minla, Mrs. Gould’s sunbird, and long-tailed minivet. In the distance, we could hear calls of the mountain bamboo partridge.
Continuing inside Phawngpui, we stopped at Cheural, near Far Pak, to scan for bird activity. To our delight, we spotted a Hume’s treecreeper, followed by the sudden appearance of a group of brown-crowned scimitar-babblers. These elusive birds graced us with their presence for over 10 minutes, allowing us to capture some exquisite shots. We also spotted a Blyth’s leaf warbler and a yellow-browed warbler amidst the foliage. Our spirits soaring, we proceeded to the forest rest house, where a well-deserved breakfast awaited us.
Satiated, we drove towards the Far Pak area. Along the route, we caught glimpses of the elusive white-browed shrike-babbler. Our journey took an exciting turn when Suman spotted a resplendent golden-throated barbet perched on a nearby branch. Our stroke of luck continued as we found a Chin Hills wren-babbler. Hearts still racing from the thrill of the encounter, we headed back to the rest house for lunch.
Stepping out of the rest house after a satisfying lunch, we saw a delightful scene in the front yard—an Indian blue robin, a striped laughingthrush, and a little bunting foraging. Energized by this sighting, we went back to the Far Pak area, and this time we encountered other bird species: the crested finchbill, grey sibia, and Hume’s treecreeper. On our way back to the rest house, our luck continued, as we caught sight of a mountain bamboo partridge foraging in the front yard. While enjoying a cup of tea, we spotted a pair of grey nightjars perched on a nearby tree, bringing a perfect end to the day.
Day 4
We set out at 5:30 a.m. with a singular objective: to spot and photograph the elusive Mount Victoria babax. Guided by Arka, we ventured to a cliff edge in the Far Pak area, which, he assured, was the optimal location for sighting the bird.
Time ticked by with no sign of our target. Just as our patience started to wane, the bird materialized in a thicket out of nowhere! We held our breath, waiting eagerly for it to emerge from the thicket. After a few tense moments, the babax ventured into the open. I could hardly believe our luck. We photographed and videographed the bird and recorded its calls. It was a stroke of fortune to witness the bird up close and for an extended period too. Reluctantly, we bid farewell to our feathered friend and made our way back to the rest house for breakfast, still exhilarated by our unforgettable encounter.
After breakfast, we decided to linger in the front yard, hoping to sight birds such as the Assam laughingthrush, Indian blue robin and mountain bamboo partridge, known to frequent the area for foraging. Shortly, we were treated to sightings of the striped laughingthrush and little bunting. Then, just before noon, a mountain bamboo partridge emerged, granting us the opportunity to photograph it and capture videos for about 5 minutes at close proximity. We couldn’t have asked for more of that day.
After lunch, we ventured to the Far Pak area in pursuit of the brown bush warbler, spot-breasted parrotbill, and russet bush warbler. I managed to take a picture of the brown bush warbler, but locating the elusive russet bush warbler was a considerable challenge. Arka, our guide, diligently scanned the surroundings and eventually signalled towards a potential spot. With our cameras poised, we patiently waited for the elusive bird . After some persistence, we succeeded in capturing a shot through dense vegetation.
The moment held special significance for Shovik: It marked his 1000th bird photographed in India. We celebrated his achievement by extending our hearty congratulations. The day ended on a joyful note despite our inability to spot the stripe-breasted woodpecker and spot-breasted parrotbill.
Day 5
Early morning, we set out towards Burma Road. It offers a vantage point to observe the last Indian village nestled on an adjacent mountain. The Chhimtuipui River demarcates the border between the two countries, leading to the first Burmese village beyond. Our target for the day was to spot the elusive spot-breasted parrotbill, and we soon found ourselves near the dense forest where it resides. Rather than pressing forward, Arka advised us to stop in our current location, recognizing the area as an ideal habitat for the parrotbill, so we waited. After a half hour, our perseverance paid off—we heard the unmistakable call of the bird. Excitement rippled through the group as the parrotbill emerged from the foliage. For a good ten minutes it tarried, offering us ample opportunities to capture its beauty.
We then turned our attention to the stripe-breasted woodpecker, but despite scanning the area for more than 2 hours, we couldn’t find it.
After lunch, we decided to split into two groups. Souvik and others went in search of the stripe-breasted woodpecker; Latha and I opted to spend time spotting birds from inside a natural hide near the rest house. For over 3 hours, we photographed a variety of birds: the white-throated fantail, yellow-bellied fairy-fantail, pygmy cupwing, yellow-browed warbler, rusty-capped fulvetta, Assam laughingthrush, blue whistling-thrush, large niltava, white-tailed robin, and snowy-browed flycatcher.
The day ended satisfactorily, leaving us feeling content. However, we had to depart Phawngpui the next day, and yet there were no signs of the elusive stripe-breasted woodpecker.
Day 6
We were getting ready to leave Phawngpui, savouring our last cup of tea at the rest house, when Arka exclaimed: ‘I hear the call of the stripe-breasted woodpecker.’ Excited, we swiftly seized our cameras and dashed towards the spot Arka indicated. Our joy knew no bounds when we found the woodpecker, marking the completion of our quest. With a sense of triumph and satisfaction, we commenced our journey back.
A bone-jarring 6-kilometre ride for half an hour in a 4 x 4 pickup truck deposited us back at Thaltlang. Here we switched to our regular vehicles. After a hearty breakfast in Sangau, we continued our journey and arrived at Lengpui town by 8
p.m.
Day 7
Since our flights were after lunch, we decided to spend the morning birding around the Government Tourist Resort area. We were fortunate to spot numerous bird species: the Blyth’s paradise-flycatcher, grey-lored broadbill, scarlet-backed flowerpecker, Asian barred owlet, and many more. A perfect ending to our trip.
Looking back on our 7-day adventure, I was delighted to have encountered a total of 148 bird species, 42 of which were lifers for me—an achievement that filled me with a sense of accomplishment.
As the aircraft soared, I couldn’t resist stealing one last glance at the breathtaking landscape below. It was a sight to behold. The experiences during these 7 days, whether spotting rare birds or traversing through dense forests, have left an indelible impression in my mind. These memories would accompany me in my journey ahead.
Species observed during the visit:
Asian House-Martin
Hill Partridge
Mountain Bamboo-Partridge
Rock Pigeon
Oriental Turtle-Dove
Spotted Dove
Barred Cuckoo-Dove
Asian Emerald Dove
Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo
Large Hawk-Cuckoo
Indian Cuckoo
Common Cuckoo
Gray Nightj
Large-tailed Nightjar
Himalayan Swiftlet
House Swift
Oriental Honey-buzzard
Himalayan Griffon
Crested Serpent-Eagle
Black Eagle
Collared Scops-Owl
Asian Barred Owlet
Collared Owlet
Spotted Owlet
Blue-bearded Bee-eater
Great Barbet
Golden-throated Barbet
Blue-throated Barbet
Speckled Piculet
Stripe-breasted Woodpecker
Greater Yellownape
Peregrine Falcon
Gray-lored Broadbill
Long-tailed Minivet
Scarlet Minivet
White-browed Shrike-Babbler
White-bellied Erpornis
Black-hooded Oriole
Maroon Oriole
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Common Iora
White-throated Fantail
Black Drongo
Ashy Drongo
Black-naped Monarch
Blyth's Paradise-Flycatcher
Gray Treepie
Large-billed Crow
Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail
Green-backed Tit
Common Tailorbird
Dark-necked Tailorbird
Rufous-crowned Prinia
Brown Bush Warbler
Russet Bush Warbler
Scaly-breasted Cupwing
Pygmy Cupwing
Nepal House-Martin
Red-rumped Swallow
Striated Swallow
White-throated Bulbul
Striated Bulbul
Ashy Bulbul
Black Bulbul
Black-crested Bulbul
Crested Finchbill
Flavescent Bulbul
Red-whiskered Bulbul
Pycnonotus jocosus
Red-vented Bulbul
Buff-barred Warbler
Yellow-browed Warbler
Lemon-rumped Warbler
Dusky Warbler
Whistler's Warbler
Blyth's Leaf Warbler
Gray-hooded Warbler
Gray-bellied Tesia
Chestnut-headed Tesia
Yellow-bellied Warbler
Mountain Tailorbird
Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler
Black-throated Tit
Spot-breasted Parrotbill
Pale-billed Parrotbill
Striated Yuhina
Whiskered Yuhina
Indian White-eye
Pin-striped Tit-Babbler
Golden Babbler
Chin Hills Wren-Babbler
Brown-crowned Scimitar-Babbler
White-browed Scimitar-Babbler
Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babbler
Rufous-winged Fulvetta
Rusty-capped Fulvetta
Puff-throated Babbler
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Nepal Fulvetta
Striped Laughingthrush
Assam Laughingthrush
Gray Sibia
Blue-winged Minla
Rusty-fronted Barwing
Silver-eared Mesia
White-crested Laughingthrush
Mount Victoria Babax
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
White-tailed Nuthatch
Hume's Treecreeper
Dark-sided Flycatcher
Oriental Magpie-Robin
White-rumped Shama
Large Niltava
Small Niltava
Verditer Flycatcher
Pale-chinned Flycatcher
Lesser Shortwing
Indian Blue Robin
Blue Whistling-Thrush
Siberian Rubythroat
White-tailed Robin
Slaty-backed Flycatcher
Slaty-blue Flycatcher
Snowy-browed Flycatcher
Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher
Little Pied Flycatcher
Taiga Flycatcher
Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush
Gray Bushchat
Yellow-vented Flowerpecker
Plain Flowerpecker
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird
Fire-tailed Sunbird
Mrs. Gould's Sunbird
Green-tailed Sunbird
Crimson Sunbird
Streaked Spiderhunter
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Orange-bellied Leafbird
White-rumped Munia
House Sparrow
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Blyth's Pipit
Olive-backed Pipit
Little Bunting
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