Birding in Malagufuk: A Hidden Paradise in West Papua
- devanandpaul
- Oct 25
- 6 min read
Updated: Oct 27
Summary: Discover Malagufuk Village, West Papua (Indonesia)—an untouched rainforest, home to birds-of-paradise—whose local community is striving to protect its pristine wilderness through ecotourism.
When birding abroad, we often stick to familiar reserves and trails, but the most memorable experiences often lie off the beaten path, beyond guidebooks and maps. One such hidden treasure is Malagufuk Village, deep in West Papua’s Klasow Valley. My guide, Arka Sarkar, promised sightings of four birds-of-paradise (the king, the magnificent riflebird, the lesser, and the twelve-wired). Sceptical at first, I soon caught his enthusiasm and convinced my friends Jamal and Latha to join me on a three-night, four-day trip exploring this secret paradise.
In this blog, I recount my birding experience in Malagufuk and share how ecotourism has sparked new life into this remote village.
Into the Jungle
We landed in Sorong by noon one fine day, where our local guide Nimrod greeted us. After a quick lunch, we drove inland through small villages and dense forests. An hour and a half later, the road ended and the jungle took over.
The village could be reached only on foot, a 4-kilometre boardwalk through wet forest. Porters ferried our luggage on trolleys, freeing us to grab our cameras and begin birding.
We entered the forest, which was alive. Pink-spotted and superb fruit-doves perched like jewels on mossy branches. Sulphur-crested cockatoos flashed their brilliant white wings overhead, calling raucously.
Colourful birds flitted through the forest: Red-cheeked and double-eyed fig parrots zipped between branches, coconut lorikeets swooped overhead, and helmeted friarbirds called from mid-canopy. Papuan babblers foraged on the floor, and a striking northern variable pitohui perched on a twig.
Then, a hush fell. Minutes later a male king bird-of-paradise appeared above us. Deeper in the forest, the haunting call of a magnificent riflebird echoed repeatedly.
By late evening, we reached Malagufuk Village. Wooden houses on stilts blended with the forest. Children waved shyly as we passed. Our homestay was simple but clean, and a fresh, home-cooked meal awaited us.
That night, we thought of going for a night walk to spot Papuan frogmouth and wallabies; however, exhaustion took over, and we postponed it, a decision we would later regret—it rained heavily the next two nights. We learned a simple rainforest lesson: Seize opportunities when they arise.
Riflebirds, Pittas, and Parrots
At 5:30 the next morning, we arrived at a hide, looking for the magnificent riflebird. Its calls echoed through the trees, deep and resonant. Minutes passed before a male appeared. For 20 minutes he was in the open, calling out, after which he disappeared.
We then moved to another hide, this time searching for the eastern hooded pitta. After a while, a flash of emerald and chestnut announced its arrival. Nearby, a Papuan pitta hopped along the branches in perfect light—rare moments every birder dreams of.
On our walk back, the forest kept delighting us: Papuan eclectus parrots perched high on the canopy, black-capped lories chattered noisily, an orange-bellied dove fluttered past, and a helmeted friarbird moved silently through the trees.
Kingfishers on a Rainy Evening
In the evening, we headed to a stream known for kingfishers, where we saw a Papuan dwarf kingfisher perched quietly in the distance. A blue-black kingfisher landed nearby, its cobalt feathers shimmering in the fading light. However, a search for the yellow-billed kingfisher proved futile.
Soon it started raining, first softly, then heavily, forcing us to return to the homestay, soaked but exhilarated.
Cassowary and King Bird Magic
The following morning, we took our places in another hide, waiting for the northern cassowary. None appeared though, and the call of a pheasant pigeon was teasing us, adding to our frustration.
Later, we moved to a canopy hide, looking for the king bird-of-paradise. Soon we spotted one partially hidden amidst dense foliage; however, after a while, like magic, it glided down a hanging vine, barely lingering for 30 seconds. I managed to capture a few breathtaking shots.
On our walk back, we saw a yellow-bellied longbill flitting through the branches and a tiny black berrypecker perched on a branch briefly.
Afternoon Birding and Evening Showers
After lunch, we sat watching birds from the homestay veranda: Sahul sunbirds fluttering between branches, shining flycatchers perched on a bush, and a black sunbird gleaming in the sunlight. A dollarbird made a brief appearance, and cheerful calls from yellow-faced and golden mynas filled the air.
Around 2 p.m. we went to the boardwalk. A pair of rufous owls watched us silently from above the canopy. Three uniform swiftlets zipped past, and a rufous-bellied kookaburra perched patiently for perfect photos.
Soon it was pouring with rain, making the boardwalk slippery. We returned slowly, careful with every step. The downpour continued through the night.
Final Day: Birds-of-Paradise and Pigeons
Rains from the previous night had turned the trails muddy, slowing us down, but our patience was rewarded—a male lesser bird-of-paradise appeared briefly, its golden plumage flashing through the mist.
After a late breakfast, we packed our bags and headed to the boardwalk for a final birding session. We spotted a frilled monarch perched and a red-billed brushturkey rustling in the undergrowth.
Then came the much-awaited call of a western crowned pigeon—deep, resonant. We followed the call and found two pigeons; they gave us an opportunity to photograph them leisurely.
Farther along, a Wompoo fruit-dove was preening its feathers and a red-cheeked parrot displayed its vibrant colours. Finally, the magnificent red-breasted paradise kingfisher appeared—a perfect farewell.
The Story of Malagufuk
Malagufuk is known not just for birds but for its people as well. Founded in 2014 as an offshoot of Malumkarta Village, Malagufuk Village once relied on farming, hunting, and logging; however, ecotourism has changed that.
Locals, especially the Moi tribe, learned bird identification, basic English, and hospitality. They built homestays for tourists, and profits generated from ecotourism were invested on clean water, schools, and churches. Slowly, their dependence on hunting and logging stopped. The forest became their lifeline, and protecting wildlife became central to their survival. As Nimrod Kalami, our local guide, said, ‘The forest is our mother. If we lose her, we lose everything.’
Malagufuk is now a new destination for international birding tours. Beyond birds, the forest shelters marsupials (pouched mammals), snakes, giant butterflies like Ornithoptera priamus.
Reaching Malagufuk requires stamina, as you need to trek through muddy trails; also, you have to cope with basic accommodation—but these challenges are part of what makes the experience truly authentic and unforgettable.
Why Choose Malagufuk
For birders, it is one of Papua’s finest lowland sites.
For conservationists, it is a model of sustainable community living.
For travellers, it is proof that true wilderness still exists—and thrives when people care for it.
Practical Tips
How to reach: flight to Sorong, followed by a 1.5-hour drive, then a 2–3-hour walk (4 km) on the boardwalk.
Stay: simple homestays with local meals.
Guide: Hire locally or arrange via birding tour operators.
Best time to visit: dry season (April–October), especially mornings and evenings.
Gear: binoculars and camera, and rubber boots for muddy trails.
Malagufuk lacks luxury hotels, gourmet meals, and smooth roads—only nature and the joy of simple living. Yet I really enjoyed myself. Bird songs filled the air, and people’s smiles felt genuine. The lush and pristine forest was rejuvenating. Far from the noise of civilisation, I felt alive in the tranquillity.
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Your blogs are too precious to miss! Takes one on a tour very close to the place you visited. Gorgeous beauties!!
Beautiful Article David, your l article “Birding in Malagufuk: A Hidden Paradise in West Papua” is wonderfu. I was deeply moved by your description of how “the forest became their lifeline, and protecting wildlife became central to their survival”. Your vivid recounting of an untouched rainforest home to birds-of-paradise and the local community’s journey from logging to ecotourism is inspiring. The piece beautifully captures both adventure and purpose.