Imagine an antique bustling port city where an old tributary of the Sabarmati River drained into the Gulf of Khambhat, in the Arabian Sea, linking ancient civilizations. Welcome to Lothal, an archaeological site in India and home to the world’s oldest dockyard, built around 2400 BCE. This engineering marvel—a vital trade hub that connected Harappan cities in Sindh (Pakistan) to the Saurashtra Peninsula (Gujarat, India), where Kutch desert lies today—shaped history long before modern ports emerged.
However, Lothal now lies quietly near the village of Saragwala, far from the vibrant centre it once was during the Indus valley civilization, its rich history hidden from tourists; but for travellers, Lothal is a treasure waiting to be discovered.
While planning my trip to Dholavira, a significant Harappan site in Kutch (Gujarat, India), I had set aside a day to explore Lothal. The ancient city being just 80 km from Ahmedabad, I took a Uber. Recent rains had flooded the fields, but the archaeological site remained unaffected—a stroke of luck, as if Lothal was patiently waiting for curious visitors.
Lothal, meaning ‘mound of the dead’, was discovered in 1954. Excavations began on 13 February 1955 and continued until 19 May 1960, uncovering a history that dates back nearly 4000 years.
Despite its modest size when compared with other Harappan sites, Lothal showcases remarkable achievements in town planning—organized layout and sophisticated drainage system, among others. It also had precise standardized weights and measures. However, the most significant aspect of Lothal is its advanced maritime trade in the Indus valley civilization.
As I stepped into the archaeological site, Lothal greeted me with a semi-arid, sweltering landscape framed by savannah-like grasslands and scattered Harappan ruins. Rows of kiln-burnt brick structures stood silent, initially seeming uninviting. Yet, my thoughts drifted to the vibrant civilization that once thrived here, and the rich past of Lothal began to take shape in my imagination. The sparse remnants sparked a vivid picture of the bustling life in a bygone epoch.
Lothal dockyard, a trapezoidal structure located on the eastern edge of the site, was expertly designed with sluice gates and spill channels to manage water levels. Although the Gulf of Khambhat now lies 16–19 km away, it is believed the sea was much closer during Lothal’s heyday. The National Institute of Oceanography in Goa found marine microfossils, as well as salt and gypsum crystals, at the site, which confirmed that seawater once filled this structure, proving Lothal was a functioning dockyard.
Recent rains had flooded the dockyard, submerging its walls. As I strolled around, I imagined the scene 4000 years ago—ships from distant lands anchoring on the very ground where I stood, bringing goods from far-off civilizations.
From the dockyard, I walked along a mudbrick wharf to a warehouse in the southwest corner. The warehouse—originally consisting 64 square rooms in neat rows, with narrow passages for air circulation—stored cargo to be taken onto, or landed from, ships. Numerous seals discovered here emphasize the warehouse’s importance in trade during Lothal’s thriving days.
Next to the warehouse is the acropolis, or upper town, a prominent feature of many Harappan sites. Built on an elevated platform to protect against flooding, the acropolis was the royal residential area. It contained large, well-designed homes, with an advanced drainage system and bathing platforms, and rows of neatly arranged smaller homes with individual baths that linked to a central sewer system through tunnels. A main drain ran underground and emptied into the dockyard. The area also included cooking blocks, pot furnaces, and wells for drinking water. The structures, built using kiln-fired bricks cemented with lime and sand mortar, have stayed remarkably intact for over 4000 years!
A short walk from the acropolis takes you to the lower town. Along the way, you will encounter a mud-brick bead factory with 11 rooms arranged around a central courtyard. Inside, two jars containing hundreds of carnelian beads at various stages of production were found embedded in the working platform. Also nearby is a double-chambered circular kiln with a stokehole. Built with thin bricks and plastered with mud, the kiln had thick walls. Small bowls containing sawdust and pebbles were used to heat and remove the outer layer of precious stones. The presence of beads and tools confirms that lapidaries (cutters or polishers of precious stones) once worked here, crafting intricate artefacts for trade.
The lower town was primarily home to artisans and featured essential civic amenities, showcasing early urbanization in the subcontinent. Streets, paved with mud bricks topped with gravel, notably featured uniform width, with no signs of encroachment. Residential houses and small workshops were found arranged in neat rows along either side. The discovery of kilns, raw materials, and artefacts in two-roomed workshops points to the presence of artisans like coppersmiths and bead makers.
A cemetery in the vicinity, from which skeletal remains from a twin burial were excavated, providing insight into ancient customs related to death and burial
The people of Lothal are believed to have worshipped animals, sea goddesses, and fire. Seals with a fire god inscription have been unearthed from this archaeological site.
Rice and cotton were their main crops, supplemented by lentils. Bones of domesticated and wild animals from the site indicate dietary diversity.
Historical estimates suggest that the ancient civilization of Lothal faced heavy flood damages from tropical storms and that the city was repeatedly rebuilt after such catastrophic inundations.
Stepping into Lothal felt like entering a time capsule, whisking me to an ancient yet vibrant city. The intricate dockyard and planned streets whispered tales of bustling trade and skilled craftsmanship. As I wandered, I could almost hear the din of artisans shaping beads and forging metal into tools and artefacts, their hands moving with purpose. The remains of each ancient structure pulsed with the energy of lives once lived. The visit to Lothal was an unforgettable journey through time, wherein the spirit of ancient India came alive in every shadow and sunbeam.
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Well explained. Thanks for taking us through with your detailed description and beautiful images. Your story telling ability is exceptional 👍
Thank you for taking us to the time capsule and giving us a detailed tour!! Amazing engineering by our ancestors!